Visiting Cheile Nerei-Beusnita National Park: A Natural Wonder in Romania

The stony trail winds alongside the rushing Nera River, its crystal-clear waters shimmering with hues of turquoise, especially near the enchanting Ochiul Beiului lake just ahead. As I continue, the lush forest envelops me in cool shade, the air fresh with the scent of pine and earth. Soon, the sound of cascading water grows louder, guiding me to the magnificent Beușnița Waterfall, where water tumbles over moss-covered rocks, creating a fine mist that dances in the sunlight, sometimes forming delicate rainbows. The peaceful atmosphere here is punctuated only by birdsong and the rustle of leaves, making it easy to forget the world beyond this natural sanctuary. 

Long time readers of this blog (thank you for your support!), will know that I try to go beyond visiting just the obvious places. While the popular places are fun (they’re popular for a reason) I do think there is much more to see in the world. Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park- also called Nera Gorge- is located in southwestern Romania. It’s a spectacular destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers. Known for its dramatic karst landscapes, the park features deep gorges, lush forests, crystal-clear lakes, and enchanting waterfalls, offering a diverse and immersive outdoor experience. 

In this blog post I will give you the details on how to visit this Romanian national park due to a lack of English information online.

 How to get to Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park?

My day started in Belgrade, however you can start your day in other parts of Romania or Serbia depending on your itinerary.

The easiest way to get to Cheile Nerei-Beușnița Național Park is to hire a car. The park is very close to the Kaluđerovo- Naidăş border crossing between Romania and Serbia.  From Belgrade to the border is a 2 hour drive and then it’s a further 30 minutes from the Romanian border.  You will be on  windy narrow village roads for most of the route. All roads are tarred and are suitable for all cars (the Romanian roads leading to the park have some potholes and gravelly bits but with careful driving, it can be managed). 

Now, if you don’t drive, it’s possible to start the trip from Timisoara (Romania) and do a private guided trip. I didn’t do this so I can’t offer any personal recommendations. 

How to get around  when visiting Cheile Nerei-Beușnița Național Park

This is a massive park and hiking the entire thing could easily take you two or more days. If you’re on a day trip, I strongly recommend having a car (or doing a guided tour with a car) so you can drive to the closest starting and ending points of the hikes.

I did not do this and regretted it immensely. I walked over 25 kms in one day. It was intense and an extremely long day.

What to see in Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park?

Here is what I recommend seeing when visiting Cheile Nerei-Beușnița Național Park. These sites are clustered together:

–Ochiul Beiului (Eye Beu): This iconic turquoise lake, fed by a karst spring, is famous for its vibrant blue colour and local legends. It is accessible via a scenic 30-minute walk from Podu Bei and is a must-see year-round.

– Beușnița Waterfalls: A series of small cascades culminating in a 5-meter high waterfall covered in moss and lichens. The falls are spectacular in all seasons, with mist creating rainbows in dry weather and a powerful flow after rain. They are reachable by hiking from the above lake. Just follow the signs.

–La Văioaga Waterfall: Easily accessible about 3 km from the park entrance, this waterfall is a cute spot for a short visit. There are two paths to walk down to this waterfall- make sure to explore both to see which one is easiest for you. 

Where to Park?

My advice is to park at Restaurant Bei.

Now do not eat there- I made this mistake and had one the most tasteless meals of my life. 

But you can easily park there and visit all the sites mentioned above.  Depending on your pace, it will be around a 3 hour round trip to visit all the sites and add in another hour for photo stops. The trail ends at Beușnița Waterfall and you will have to double back the same way you came. 

When I visited the park I was on a group tour with an over enthusiastic tour guide who insisted we hike to some underwhelming rock tunnels. In my opinion, this was completely unnecessary. However, if you wish to do it, you can easily drive nearby to see them. There’s no need to walk an additional 7kms (which is what we ended up doing. Notice how I am not recommending the group tour I went with?)

Practical Tips for visiting

– The park is relatively remote with limited infrastructure; some trails may be rugged and poorly marked, so read the signs and take photos of the boards with maps.

-Just to emphasise again- BRING YOUR OWN FOOD and do not rely on the restaurant unless you enjoy the taste of dry cardboard.. 

– Mobile phone signal is non existent in the park. Local staff at the camping site can assist in emergencies.

– The best time to visit is late spring through early autumn when weather conditions are favourable for hiking.

-You are not allowed to enter the water when visiting Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park.

-Bring a full large water bottle- you can also refill with pure clean water at the waterfalls. 

-Many reports online said there is a 1 Euro fee to be paid to enter the park. I did not see where any place or person that this should be paid so do with that information what you will.

– Check visa requirements for your nationality before travelling. I used a Schengen Visa to visit Romania. My visa was not issued by Romania but I did not have any problems using it. The officers are border control are young, inexperienced and inefficient. Be patient if you have a non- European passport.

What to wear?

-Wear comfortable shoes with good grip and ankle support, as the path is rocky and can be slightly slippery in certain areas.

-The weather can change in an instant. I suggest layering up certain spots to receive limited sunshine and stay cold!

-The park can be cold in places so I suggest layering up and removing layers as needed.

LASTLY,

Nera Gorge offers a tranquil escape into Romania’s beauty, with dramatic landscapes and rich biodiversity that rival more famous European parks (especially for the questionable price of 1 Euro!). Whether you seek adventure or peaceful exploration, visiting Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park promises an unforgettable experience.

If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to pin it using the pins below:

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Lastly, I have a wealth of information on my Instagram especially in the Romania highlight, and on my feed. Do have a look.

Have you visited Romania before? Or have I inspired you to try visiting Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park? Let me know in the comments below!